Along the way. . . Fr. Christopher’s Blog

          In just a few minutes, Kerry and I, along with St. Jude’s intern, Debra, will be heading over to our local R.C. Rectory to join the priests there for dinner. This long-planned party gives us a continued chance to expand our friendship.
          For nearly 4 years, I have found myself heading to St. Francis de Chantal, every Monday, to discuss the coming Sunday’s lessons. Most of the time, the lessons are the same with minor adjustments. Thankfully, the Gospel is nearly always the same.
          This fellowship time of sharing has been a place of “home” for me. No matter what is happening in the week, I have found that, when I go see my friends, when we study Scripture together, when we listen to the Holy Spirit, I, and my dear friends, grow together in Christ.
          For over 40 years, Christians have been working on trying to cross interdenominational boundaries in order to find common ground in Christ. Often, these efforts fail due to denominationalism and authority figures getting in the way. Yet, when Christians, on their own, work together at exploring Scripture, all things are possible, friendships develop and there comes the realization that we are One Body in Christ with One Lord, One Faith and One Baptism.
          Don’t get me wrong, I have no desire to become Roman Catholic nor do my friends desire to become Episcopalian. Yet, what we do desire is to expand our faith and thank God for the ministry of each other.
Copyright © 2008 The Very Rev. Christopher D. Hofer

 

For sale:      Millions of faithful followers of Christ.
Cost:           20 shekels of silver.
Details:       Doctors, lawyers, dentists, politicians, teachers, students, unemployed, homeless, housewives, actors, organists, florists, professional sports players, domestic servants, priests, deacons, bishops, numerous other professionals – young and old – of all shapes, sizes, colors and nationalities – some able bodied some with disabilities – all baptized Christians.
Fine Print:   As the millions are members of the GLBT community, all sales are final with absolutely no refunds.

          A long time ago, in a very far off land and in a culture so very different from our own, 11 brothers sold their brother into the arms of Midianite traders for the pitiful sum of 20 shekels of silver – about 8 ounces. The merchants, trying to garner a good price for their new acquisition, sold the young man to an Egyptian named Potiphar. The young man was none other than Joseph himself.
          Since mid-July, a majority of the bishops and primates from the Anglican Communion have been meeting in England for the every ten-year Lambeth Conference. It ended on Sunday with the publication of the Lambeth Indaba report. The meeting, a time of mutual ministry and celebration, was also a time for the mostly men, and a few women, to speak about issues facing Christians – especially issues of importance within the Anglican Communion.
          Although much good came out of the conference, sadly, the organizers, and, according the Archbishop of Canterbury, a majority of the participants, felt that the current moratia of not ordaining homosexuals to the episcopate and not blessing same-sex marriages/civil unions should be continued.
          The actions of the bishops and the pronouncement by the Archbishop of Canterbury that sacrificing gays and lesbians for the sake of communion is chilling. Could it be that the GLBT community being acknowledged as full members of the Church of Christ is too much for the bishops and the Archbishop of Canterbury to handle? By continuing to withhold the blessings of God, given to all in their baptism, the primates and bishops are selling the GLBT community to anyone willing to take the community off their hands. Will 20 shekels be enough?
          Lest we forget the rest of the story, the bishops and primates need to remember the full Joseph story. Although he spent many years in slavery and even landed in jail, he eventually became greater than anyone could possibly imagine as God used Joseph for God’s purposes.
          So, go ahead bishops! Continue to sell off the GLBT community to the highest (or lowest) bidder. Be careful, though, for God will use those being sacrificed for your false sense of communion and, in God’s time, the GLBT community will be greater than you can possibly imagine.
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Copyright © 2008 The Very Rev. Christopher D. Hofer

          What a blessed thing it is to sleep in! As our flight wasn’t until 11:00 a.m., we were able to sleep till 7:00 a.m. for our 8:30 a.m. pick-up. As we were already packed, all we had to do was grab a nice breakfast overlooking the pyramids, shower and take our luggage downstairs and wait for George (the transfer man) and, of course, Adel. After checking-out of the hotel, we head, once again, for our second home – the airport.
          Our flight will be on Royal Jordanian. We have no clue what to expect. Thankfully, George works our way through check-in and immigration. We’ll see him when we return. The international flight section of Cairo airport is quite nice. As we had some time, we headed for Starbucks (which made Kerry very happy). Then, it was time to board for our Royal Jordanian flight.
          A word about Royal Jordanian. I simply cannot praise that airline enough. The individuals at the gate were extremely kind. When we got on the plane, we were pleasantly surprised – it was a new plane (the airline invested a lot of money in new planes). The seats were two to a side which meant that Kerry and I could sit alone. AND, the seats are all leather with a huge amount of leg room. Very quickly, the friendly flight attendant came and offered everyone newspapers. From the moment we arrived to leaving, we were treated like royalty (in coach, of all places). We even received a meal. That’s right. A meal for a 1 ¼ hour flight. It wasn’t much – but still it included two small sandwiches, a dessert, a salad and water along with soda, coffee or tea. I wouldn’t mind flying them overseas some day.
          Upon arrival, we were met by the Traveland agent (actually from Ashtar), who helped us get through security and immigration. He was very friendly. He introduced us to our driver for the day and our guide for the trip, J.J.
          We were then taken by car to our hotel – Le Meridian, Amman. Le Meridian is a huge hotel in one of the upscale areas of Amman. As we were members of Starwood, we were given a wonderful room in the new wing. The room was huge, the bathroom amazing, the whole hotel was beautiful. We would be there for two nights. We checked into our room, got settled, and met downstairs with JJ to go on our tour of Amman.
          We drove through Amman – a city of many hills, and found our way to the Citadel – an old castle on top of a hill overlooking the old part of Amman. It was amazing seeing remnants of the old Amonites (that’s right, from Bible). From thousands of years, the Amonites and beyond kept building on the hill. There were castles, churches and mosques. What remains now is mostly remnants and reconstructions. However, the views of the city are breathtaking.
          We drove from the Citadel and went to the old Roman Theatre at the base of the hill. The theatre, which seats about 2000, is till used today. In fact, when we were there, the theatre was preparing for a concert the next day. Security was very high because the King and Queen would be attending the concert. This theatre is just one of many we’ll see in Jordan. I’m amazed about how they are still in use.
          After the theatre, we head back to our hotel. Kerry and I decide to go, guess where?, to the pool. We sit at the pool, have some lunch, take a dip in the pool, and of course, have some beer. This “lunch” cost a pretty penny. The beers were $9.00 each. Oh well, we’re on vacation and I fell 100000% better – thus, I really don’t care.
          Later we eat in the restaurant for dinner (buffet, included in the price). Although we don’t eat too much, we had eaten only a few hours before, the food was quite good and the service in the restaurant good (compared to the pool which was painfully slow). After dinner we take JJ’s advice and walk about a mile to a strip where there are restaurants, bars, etc. to get some cash. We find a store which sells beer ($1/beer) a much better deal. We get some, and some water, and head back to our room for the night. We’re glad to be in Amman – a nice break from the Cairo.
          A quick note about Amman. First off, the temperatures are at least 15 – 20 degrees cooler and there is humidity in the air. A big difference from the last two weeks with no humidity and scorching temperatures. In fact, the air felt much like Long Island. Amman is a beautiful and relatively clean city. We felt completely safe and were not “harassed” by individuals asking us to buy items.
          Tomorrow we get to go to Um Qeis and Jerash. We can’t wait.
          Here’s some photos from today: (photos to come).
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Copyright © 2008 The Very Rev. Christopher D. Hofer

          I know there have been a few early morning departures; however, these 4:30 a.m. departures are killers. This morning, after a quick shower and wake-up call at 4:00 a.m., Kerry and I found ourselves back in the lobby of Le Meridien for our 4:30 a.m. drive to the monasteries of St. Paul and St. Anthony – about 4 – 5 hours away via car. We learned our lesson from our trip to Luxor last week and asked for a breakfast box to be taken with us. It included a water bottle, a banana, some breads, cheese, yogurt and a couple of sandwiches which would serve us well later.
          It’s a long drive and I fall quickly asleep. Although the van doesn’t lend itself to sleeping, Kerry conks out on the back seat, I’m in the middle seat, Hany is in the front passenger seat and poor Adel, who only had 2 hours of sleep the night before, must drive. I find myself waking-up every-so-often but, for the most part, sleep a good 3 hours. We stop for some coffee and a necessary room break, right on the shores of the Red Sea. I couldn’t help think of the story of Moses and the Israelites crossing the Red Sea. The Sea, like Lake Nasser, is a beautiful aqua-marine color.
          Back in the van, we head about an hour away, into the dessert, to go to the Monastery of St. Paul. The lesser traveled of the Monasteries, St. Paul’s Monastery is actually the most impressive. The monastery dates to the 5^th Century although its founder, St. Paul, was there much before. Paul, born to wealthy parents, was born around 228. At age 16, his parents died, he renounced his inheritance, consecrated his life to Christ, and found his way to the eastern dessert of Egypt where he lived till he was 113 years old (upon his death).
          According to tradition, St. Paul lived in his cave, clothed in a tunic made of plaited palm leaves, and was brought a half of a loaf of bread per day by a raven for him to eat. When his neighbor, St. Anthony came to the dessert, the raven brought a whole loaf – ½ for each.
          In the middle of the dessert, a spring of water arose from the mountain. It still brings enough water for the inhabitants. The same is true for the Monastery of St. Anthony. According to legend, when St. Paul died, when Anthony, who often visited Paul, arrived at the cave where Paul had lived those many years, he saw angels carrying the soul of the holy ascetic to heaven. Paul’s body remained in the cave, but two lions approached and dug  a grave into which Anthony placed Paul’s body wrapped in the cloak he had fetched. Anthony is said to have kept Paul’s tunic of palm leaves, which he wore to celebrate the occasions of Easter and Pentecost.
          When we arrived at the Monastery, the monks were in prayer and we were asked to wait in a reception room where we were brought tea and coffee. After some time, a monk came and started to show us the Monastery. We saw the oldest chapel which was expanded over time. It included the tomb of St. Paul. Highlights included the numerous chapels, the icons, the old refectory and kitchen area, and drinking water straight from the mountain. It supposedly tastes either sweet our salty. Mine tasted like water!
          On the tour, the monk went into the main refectory and brought us all freshly baked bread. It was so delicious and hot. The hospitality we received at St. Paul’s was wonderful.
          After our tour, we head back to the road and go another hour – back the way we came and more to the northwest, to head to St. Anthony’s monastery. On the way to the monastery we saw many wild camels – it was a wonderful site. Oh, by-the-way, the temperatures were very hot – we’re in the middle of the dessert and the sun is beating down. I have no clue how the monks do it (dressed in total black covering their heads as well).
          Upon arrival at St. Anthony’s Monastery, we were greeted as always; however, we weren’t offered anything. Finally, a monk arrived (who was quite ill and, truth-be-told, smelled awful.) It was difficult to concentrate as his body odor was so strong having been so sick. He tells us a bit of the monastery’s history, then immediately takes us to the Gift Shop so we can purchase things. (This actually disturbed me. It was as if we were expected to buy something).
          Although Kerry and I bought a few items, we did feel some pressure. Afterwards, we were taken on a brief tour of the Monastery – seeing the chapel, some remains of some of the former heads of the Monastery, the old refectory, etc. It was arranged for us to eat at the Monastery; however, when Hany asked about the lunch, he was told, “there is nothing for us.” Having been at many monasteries, I found this a bit odd and off-putting. Monastic life 101 is to show hospitality to the stranger. I found the hospitality at St. Anthony’s to be almost non-existent. Also, I fear the monastery is becoming Disney-like. They receive so many visitors that their ministry of worshiping and praising God seems to be going to the side. Instead, it is as if they are becoming a money-making enterprise.
          We leave the main bit of the monastery and go to the side of the mountain. We decide NOT to climb the hundreds of steps and go and see the small cave where Anthony lived. It is simply too hot and, although I feel much better (no more diarrhea – thanks be to God), I don’t want to risk it.
          We head back to the van and drive an hour to stop for lunch. As we were supposed to have lunch at the monastery, Traveland decided to pick-up lunch for us at the place we had coffee in the morning. We had a nice bit of chicken and some beer (I finally feel ready to drink beer).
          We take the long ride back and pass resort after resort on the Red Sea. We get back to our hotel around 5:00 p.m. We say goodbye to Hany as we will not be seeing him again. Thanks Hany, for showing us so many sites.
          It was a long day but I’m glad we went to the Monasteries. Kerry and I quickly head to the room, grab our swimsuits and go swimming followed by a nice Happy Hour at the pool bar. We decide to eat dinner in our room (again, it is cheaper to eat it in the room), go for some wine and hit the bed for a good night’s sleep. Tomorrow we’re off to Jordan!
          Here’s some photos from today: (photos to come).
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Copyright © 2008 The Very Rev. Christopher D. Hofer

Sunday, 6/15
          After a great night last night, woke-up at 7:00 a.m. for our 8:00 a.m. departure. Overnight our cruise ship arrived back in Luxor – where we started out. We were up (which is down) and down (which is up) the Nile. No more cruising on this ship; however, we still have 24 more great hours left.
          At 8:00 a.m., we join our crew (oh, we’ve picked up more strangers – those who were with another group but sadly, their tour guide’s son was ill, thus, they are with us). We go not that far of distance to Karnak Temple.
          The Karnak Temple is totally unbelievable and it really took my breath away. According to the “tour books,” Karnak is perhaps the second most important site after the pyramids of Giza. The Temple was built over a 1300 year period and covers a lot of land.
          As you approach the entrance, you go through a row of sphinxes which actually go 2 km to Luxor Temple.  As you enter the front of the Temple, you move into the heart of the whole complex which is the Temple of Amun (the king of all the gods). Once inside the main gate, what impressed me most is the absolute size of the Temple. There are huge columns, an enormous statue of Ramses II, numerous hieroglyphics, beautiful paintins – you name it. In the middle of the Temple of Amun is the Great Hypostyle Hall – filled with over 134 gigantic columns. How they built this was by placing huge stones on top of stones to make the columns. You can see how it was done by unfinished bits.
          There is the Sacred Lake where the priests would purify themselves before performing rituals within the Temple. There’s more monuments, festival halls and even remnants of the ceiling. We’re given only ½ hour to explore (why we didn’t all ask for more is beyond me). Kerry and I join-up with Emma and start to wander with her. A sense of “awe” and “how did they do that?” filled us as we walked through many, but not all of the halls.
          Oh, as we entered the Temple, we were asked to have a group photo – which we did – and most of us bought the photos. It isn’t too bad a photo other than those folks who weren’t part of our original group were in it and one of them was actually talking on the cell phone (in the photo). Oh well, to each her/his own.
          We left Karnak and drove the few miles to Luxor Temple. Although not nearly as impressive (it is quite smaller), it is still magnificent nonetheless. The Temple is on the banks of the Nile which would have been an imposing sight for anyone cruising on the Nile. Archeologists and Egyptologists believe that the Temple was completed during the reign of Amenhotep III in the 18^th Dynasty and added to by Ramses II in the 19^th Dynasty. Although it was used for centuries later, it eventually was covered by sand and wasn’t rediscovered until 1881. The only visible bit of the Temple was the Abu an-Haggag Mosque, built in the 13^th Century, over the Temple.
          The Temple is entered through the row of sphinxes from Karnak. The city of Luxor is currently in an effort to move buildings so the whole site might be joined to one another (many of the sphinxes are actually well preserved below the ground).
          In the front is a giant pylon dedicated to Ramses II due to his victory over the Hittites. It is surrounded by two big statues (82 ft) of Ramses and a very tall pink granite obelisk that is on its left. There used to be another obelisk but it was given in the early 19^th Century to Paris and is now in the Place de la Concorde.
          Like Karnak, there is a row of huge columns, this time decorated with papyrus. There are various halls, more rows of columns, and rooms upon rooms of ruins. There is even a statue of King Tut and his wife.
          All in all, I much more preferred Luxor Temple and would have like more time there – we had 30 minutes at Karnak, too – way too much time. The heat and sun were really getting strong – it will be a 110 + degree day again.
          Thankfully, we finally head back to the bus and go to the cruise ship for one last drop-off. This is it. Our last Nile Cruise adventure in Luxor. The rest of the day will be spent having lunch (I’m eating much, much more), being on the sun deck (I spent ALL afternoon on the deck and even went into the pool for the first time in the week), talking and drinking (no alcohol for me, yet) with our wonderful new friends, changing for dinner and packing everything to leave for tomorrow, having a nice dinner and then a long, leisurely evening on the deck with friends chatting, drinking and reminiscing. It is a perfect end for a perfect day. (Believe it or not, it is down-right painfully hot on the deck tonight. Oh well, we head to Cairo tomorrow).
          Here’s photos from today: http://www2.snapfish.com/shareereg/p=979161216242134865/l=408808395/g=50633650/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB/pns/share/p=979161216242134865/l=408808395/g=50633650/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB
Monday, 6/16
          Sadly, our cruise has come to an end. We get to get-up this morning at 7:30 for a nice leisurely breakfast, shower, one more walk around the ship, saying goodbyes and leaving for the airport at 9:30 a.m. Although I’m really sad about getting sick on the ship, it was a great adventure. I didn’t miss a thing (minus the hot air balloon and the Karnak light show (which we were supposed to see last night but decided not to). I loved having the chance to meet such wonderful people. We’ve exchanged emails and will be in touch. It was a tiring leg of our journey but worth every minute of it.
          We had to pay our bill this morning (yikes – lots of water and lemon juice for me and lots of beer and wine for Kerry). Oh well, we were on and are on vacation.
          The trip back to the airport is relatively painless. I’m still amazed how you’re able to fly in Egypt with water bottles brought from outside. Nonetheless, the transfer man helps us get our tickets and directs us to the gate. The flight is harmless and we arrive in Cairo not that far behind schedule.
          Upon arrival at the terminal, there is George waiting for us – no sign needed (he knows we know who he is). It is a friendly and warm smile. I’m glad to see him. OH – by the way, it is freezing in Cairo (ok, compared with Luxor). The temperature is probably in the 80’s when we arrive – a nice treat.
          Now, what will happen? We are scheduled to have lunch with Lesley and her son, James, from Traveland. They booked a lunch at the Oberoi Mena House Hotel (a former palace) right at the base of the Giza pyramids. Thankfully, though, we are allowed to stop and check-in our room first and change. We have another room, one floor up, with a view of all three pyramids now. The room is more spacious than the first. It was and is like coming home when we arrive at Le Meridian.
          After getting ready (15 minutes), we head to meet Adel who takes us right down the street to the Mena House. The palace is magnificent and we find Ms. Lesley and Mr. James there waiting for us in this divine restaurant right below the pyramids. It feels like we’ve walked into an Agatha Christie-type setting.
          We spend well more than 2 hours sitting and talking with Lesley and James. Have the most wonderful meal and I try my first beer in a week (I decide to stop as my stomach isn’t ready yet – tomorrow I know I’ll be fine!). Lesley and James are charming. She is lucky to have such a great son and he is lucky to have such a great mom. Her care and effort into ensuring that our trip was wonderful goes without saying. When we talk, it feels like I’m talking with an old friend (she already called me twice on the cruise ship to check-up on Kerry and me). We talk about many, many things.
          As we leave, I give Lesley a St. Jude Statue of Liberty Church Mouse (For her) and I give her another mouse to give to her daughter. She gives us this wonderful picture book filled with the Christian Churches of Egypt. What a true and wonderful gift.
          After lunch, we go back the 4 minute ride to the hotel where we’ll have a few hours to rest. We immediately decide to hit the pool – and I swam. The pool, right below the pyramids, is such a place to swim and have fun. It does, though, feel a little cold. It is amazing how quickly you get used to the temperatures.
          Now it is time to shower and get ready to leave again. I don’t know why at the time we thought this was a good idea; however, we go to downtown Cairo for a 2 hour dinner cruise. That’s right – we just left the Nile and are back on it. The food was so/so – a bit rushed and I was super cautious about eating food. We get some beer (I try it again – doing better) – the beer and water were ridiculously expensive. But, the entertainment was nice – a whirling dervish, a belly dancer, some singers. Kerry and I decide to go out to the deck and watch the scenery. We’re the first ones to leave the ship when we dock. I think we’re just tired. Besides, tomorrow we have to leave at 4:30 a.m. to go to the Monasteries of Sts. Paul and Anthony.
          It is good to be back in Cairo. We’re home again.
          Here’s some photos from today: http://www2.snapfish.com/shareereg/p=434161216243323887/l=408808933/g=50633650/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB/pns/share/p=434161216243323887/l=408808933/g=50633650/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB
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Copyright © 2008 The Very Rev. Christopher D. Hofer

          Once again, today is a bit of an early rise – 7:00 a.m.; however, that is to allow us to take a Felucca ride to Kitchener’s Island and get back in time to sail down the Nile to Luxor. I feel so much better today and thanks to Gold Bond Medicated Powder (God’s gift for any skin problem), my prickly heat is much better.
          After breakfast and getting ready, we head to the lobby to meet our group. Right outside of the Cruise Ship we meet the captain of our Felucca boat and his crew. Felucca’s are the traditional sail boat on the Nile. We all get on board, are escorted by a motor boat to the middle of the Nile and, guess what? No wind. Our captains try to get the boat to move and we must be waiting for about 15 minutes. During that time, two little boys have a very small little boat that they row up to our Felucca and start to sing. (I hope to have them leave so I give them some money. That was the wrong thing to do – now they hope to get money from everyone).
          Finally, Moataz, our guide, has the captain of the boat get the motorized boat to move us to Kitchener’s Island as there is still no wind.
          Kitchener’s Island is a small, oval-shaped island in the Nile within Aswan. It was given to Lord Kitchener as a thank you for the work he did in the Sudan Campaign in the late 1800’s. Kitchener loved plants and quickly turned it into an island filled with plants from the world. Due to it being super lush, it is filled with birds and, sadly, an overabundance of cats who were at one point brought to the island and never spayed or neutered.
          Although there are some beautiful trees and plants on the island, it is the birds which are most fascinating. Some of the birds make the most interesting sounds – which I cannot even describe in writing. Truly there is life on the Nile.
          After our visit, we head back to the Felucca for our trip to the Sonesta St. George. Thankfully, the wind has picked-up and we can go via wind power. On the way back, the crew make us stand and sing traditional Nubian songs – it really is a lot of fun.
          Once everyone is back onboard, we set sail for Luxor which will take about 24 hours to get to. There are no planned activities in the afternoon except for lunch and afternoon tea. I am feeling so much better that after lunch, I sit on the sun deck (under the canopy) and watch the beautiful scenery I missed on the way down. Kerry spends time back and forth between under the canopy and the pool.
          Sadly, there are a group of very rude and loud South Africans (an air conditioning company trip) who are on this leg of the pool. The coordinator (or the owner’s wife – I couldn’t decide who she is), is perhaps the rudest of all. She yells at Hany (one of the waiters) for insulting them by not putting the beer cans in the glass – a sign of hospitality for South Africans. She goes on and on to him about this. She tries to bring beer into the pool and spills it. She makes everyone feel uncomfortable.
          As a traveler and not a tourist, I try to adjust to the culture I am in. Thus, I mainly wore pants while visiting sites instead of shorts. I wore either long sleeve shirts or at least a shirt to cover my shoulders. I try to be respectful to the culture and realize that it won’t be like in the U.S. Sadly, many individuals, whether American or from another country, want and expect things to be just the way they are in their country and home. But that will never happen. We are guests in the country we visit and it is so important to respect others.
          After tea, we get ready for our Galabaya Party II. We meet in the lobby and wait for Moataz to join us for a group photo (see the slide show for today). Once again, we have traditional Egyptian food (although I’m still not too into food). We have some nice photos taken and join the Galabaya Party in the lounge. It is quite a lot of fun with games, etc. Although it is very noisy.
          Tomorrow we’ll be back in Luxor for the final leg of our trip.
          Once again, here’s some photos from today: http://www2.snapfish.com/shareereg/p=843121215916352672/l=406275525/g=105469684/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB/pns/share/p=843121215916352672/l=406275525/g=105469684/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB

Copyright © 2008 The Very Rev. Christopher D. Hofer

In an effort to ensure that your home computer systems do not crash, I have been putting the photos on Snapfish. You’ll notice that once your register, you’ll be able to click on all of the photo albums I have placed online. You will not be able to view without registering and if you click all the links at once, you might get an error. I’m trying to figure out the best way for you to view the albums and this system will work - if you register and put one at a time. Thanks for your patience.

          Before heading to Egypt, all the travel books and friends who visited Egypt all said or wrote, “you must visit Abu Simbel.” When Kerry and I booked out trip, we decided that Abu Simbel would be a must – even with the additional cost of $255/person which would include flight from Aswan to Abu Simbel, transfer from both airports and guide at Abu Simbel.
          For weeks prior to the departure, our travel agent, Lesley, tried to confirm our flight to Abu Simbel. The original plan was to get the 7:30 a.m. flight. In fact, Kerry has his flight booked about 4 days before our departure. However, my flight was yet to be booked.
          Upon arrival in Cairo, Lesley’s son, James, told us the good news – Abu Simbel was confirmed. Even better news, we were to take the 10:00 ish flight which meant we could sleep in a bit more. The bad news is that it would be even more hot.
          Thankfully, the day before, the local Traveland representative confirmed the flight to Abu Simbel. This way, upon arrival at the Aswan airport, we’d be able to quickly hop on board.
          Since the flight wasn’t till later, we were able to have our wake-up call at the late hour of 7:30 a.m. After breakfast, and showering (yes, still some BDT’s but I’m 10000000% better), we head to the lobby and meet our transfer person.
          We leave for the airport (a good 20 – 30 minute drive) and arrive in enough time to get our tickets and get some coffee. It is amazing, all the day-trippers (the whole flight), are bringing lunch boxes with them. “Why didn’t we think of that?” At least we arranged with the cruise ship to have a lunch for us upon our return.
          Aswan airport very small and loaded with day-trippers. Our flight is completely booked and we are surrounded by a lot of Italians (all noisy, too). Thankfully, the flight is short.
          We arrive in Abu Simbel and our greeted by our transfer man who takes us directly to Abu Simbel sight on the shore of Lake Nasser. The water is breathtaking – aqua marine blue – stunning in every way. Upon arrival at the site, we are met by our guide who tell us to walk around to the front of the monument. (We discover later the reason why he didn’t take us himself is that he was “double-dipping.” Not only did he have us as his tourists, he had another couple, too).
          The good news is that since we were the first to arrive at the site, we were able to get some amazing views of the monument without anyone in front of it. (See the link at the end of this blog).
          A word about Abu Simbel. It was carved out of a huge mountain in the 13^th Century BCE. There are actually two sites – the wonderful Temple of Abu Simbel and the smaller Temple of Hathor. The Great Temple, dedicated to the gods of Amun of Thebes and Ptah of Mephis, was actually built to honor Ramses II (in front of the statue are four gigantic statues of Ramses II wearing the double crown of upper and lower Egypt).
          The small Temple of Hathor was dedicated to honor  Ramses II favorite wife, Nefertari. Our guide says the whole temple was actually a love story between the love of one Pharaoh and his beloved wife.
          The two monuments were moved 688 feet by UNESCO in the 1960’s due to the building of the High Dam and the subsequent flooding. They are both housed in fake mountains although original stone is still used.
          The façade of the Great Temple is surrounded by the four huge statues of Ramses II, one of the statues was broken in the great earthquake of 27BC. Above the statue are baboons which are meant to greet the rising sun. In the back of the temple, through some remarkable galleries with 33 feet high statues of Ramses II flanking the entrance, there is the inner sanctuary. On two days a year, the sun, for one hour, hits the back of the sanctuary and shines on Ramses II’s crown.
          The smaller Temple of Hathor is still as equally impressive. Like the Great Temple, there are statues of Nefertari in the front and small rooms in the middle. All are magnificent sites.
          The weather is unbearably warm, though. Today is the hottest day we’ll be in Egypt – 116 degrees as we are closer as ever to the Equator. The sun is super bright and we are dying in the heat.
          After visiting the Temple, we wait at a refreshment stand where some cold water awaits us. Finally, after meeting our tour guide, we head back to the airport (where we wait for 45 minutes) to finally board the plane to head back to Aswan.
          The flight is 30 minutes late. Thankfully, though, it is uneventful and we arrive safe and sound to our boat where some sandwiches, fruit and dessert await us in the room.
          After the very late lunch, we decide to take a quick nap then we head to the sun deck for afternoon tea. Dinner awaits (tonight we dine once again with Ian, Christine and Emma where we regale them with our tales of Abu Simbel). After dinner we all head to the sun deck for drinks (I get to have water – yeah!!!).
          Now, a word about Abu Simbel. Was it worth the money and the heat and the time away from the boat? I’m not certain. Although I’m glad I saw the monuments, it seemed like a lot of money for a very quick trip. I suppose I would have rather spent my money on other things. If I were to do Abu Simbel again, I would probably combine it with a Lake Nasser Cruise –instead of going from Aswan. Yes, it was enjoyable. However, I’m not quite sure it was worth the money.
          Tomorrow we get to have a ride on a Felucca and head to Kitchner’s Island. Then we start to sail for Luxor – which should be an enjoyable ride on the Nile.
Here’s photos from today: http://www2.snapfish.com/shareereg/p=45481215545702120/l=402507741/g=50633650/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB/pns/share/p=45481215545702120/l=402507741/g=50633650/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB

Copyright © 2008 The Very Rev. Christopher D. Hofer

          Every Sunday at our principle worship service at St. Jude, I say, “Welcome to the Church of St. Jude where God is good all the time and all the time God is good.” How true of a statement that was today when I awoke, with a relatively late 7:00 a.m. wake-up call, and felt sooo much better than the previous two days. Although the BDT’s were still there (a combination of the strong antibiotics and the extreme heat), I feel a 100% better. I slept all through the night – thank God. The only relatively bad thing that happened is that, due to the sweating and heat, I have developed a bad case of prickly heat behind my legs. Thankfully, I came prepared (not for prickly heat – but with the right item) with Gold Bond Medicated Powder – just what prickly heat hates.
          After our normal morning rituals of breakfast, etc., we head down to the lobby to meet our group for a visit to some Aswan sights. Today we’ll be going to the unfinished obelisk, the high dam and the Temple of Philae. Our guide, Moataz says that in the late evening he’ll take us to the market in Aswan, too.
          We leave for our bus for the day to head to the Unfinished Obelisk. The sight is nothing more than an old quarry that the ancient pharaohs used to bet great monuments. What makes this sight unique is that, in the middle of the quarry, is this huge unfinished obelisk meant for Queen Hatshepsut. If built from this magnificent granite, it would have been 1,197 tons and been 134 feet tall. Unfortunately, when they built it, it cracked. It was simply too big. From then on, no pharaoh attempted to build a bigger obelisk.
          Interestingly, what the pharaohs and the architects did was to use the Nile. When it flooded, the obelisk would start to float to the temple it was going to. Amazing considering I wouldn’t think such a heavy item would float.
          After visiting the obelisk, we head for the Aswan High Dam. The Dam was built between 1960 and 1971 and is 12, 562 feet across and 364 feet high and 3,214 feet wide at its base. It was built to harness the water of the Nile and provide energy for the country (see my thoughts in an earlier blog about the problems and successes of such a dam). Although interesting, my thought was, “if you’ve seen one dam before you’ve seen them all.”
          We then head for the Temple of Philae located on an island. After the Aswan Dam was built, UNESCO undertook a project to move the Temple to higher ground. Many temples were moved. Some, sadly, are still underneath the water of Lake Nasser.
          To get to the Temple we have to take a boat as it is on an island. From the temple, it was said that the god Isis was said to watch over the sacred island of Biga – a mythical burial site for her husband, Osiris.
          The Temple of Isis is magnificent and dates back to the Ptolemaic and Roman periods. There are magnificent colonnades, various rooms, and amazing views. There are also some temples on the Island  in honor of other gods including the Temple of Hathor.
          Now I mentioned that it was hot today, and that is an understatement. Today the temperature is 115 degrees with not a cloud in the sky. The sun is so intense in Aswan as we are closer to the Equator. Thankfully, there is a small refreshment stand where we stop and buy some cold drinks.
          The way back from the island is most fun as we get to watch the water, the temple and have a sales pitch by the ship’s crew for some Nubian items. (We buy some necklaces for staff and friends).
          On the way back to the Cruise Ship, we actually make a tourist-trap stop – this time at a Perfume Factory. We learn how perfumes in Egypt are made. The flowers or plants are pressed to get out the oils. The oils are then buried for some time. What remains is pure essence with no alcohol and water. The perfumes will never evaporate and it will only take one drop to make things smell.
          One of the members of our group, an older woman from England, makes a comment about the “women’s Viagra” perfume. She wants to buy it and have her husband watch-out. She is a scream.
          Yes, we give-in to the sales pitch and buy 6 jars of perfume (some medicinal and some for scent – to use in oil heaters). We will give some away in great glass jars. The only problem with the perfume is that we’ll have to check it in our luggage. I pray none of it breaks.
          We head back to the boat for showers and lunch. I’m feeling so much better that in the afternoon I treat myself to a massage. It is so/so – but the thought of pampering myself was nice. While I am at the massage, Kerry is once again on the sun-deck. After a quick nap, I join Kerry on the sun deck for high tea – nice – but the heat is almost like death.
          Following tea, we meet a few from our group and Moataz to go to the Aswan market – one of the largest in Egypt. It is fascinating with stand after stand of items and everyone trying to get us to buy something. Everyone wants to barter. I want nothing more than to buy an Egyptian football (soccer) jersey – I collect jerseys in every country I go to.
          Bartering was fun. Some of the staff on the cruise ship told me to spend no more than 80 Egyptian pounds - 15 dollars on a jersey. I walk in this shop with another one of the group, the shop-owner tells me – 250 pounds for the jersey. I say, 80. He says, 230, I show my cards and tell him I know from the crew on the ship to spend no more than 80. That is my final and only offer. He tries to give me a “tourist” soccer shirt. I say, “no, I want the real one.” We go back and forth. At 130 he says, “Who do you think you are. You come to my country and insult me with such a low offer. I should get my gun out and shoot you now.” I say, “ok, that’s fine, but still my offer is 80 or nothing.” Guess what, I got it for 80!
          We slowly walk back to the ship, everyone picking-up a few items here and there. Thankfully, we were able to get really cheap water. For dinner, Christine, Ian, Emma, Natalie, Kerry and I all eat together. It is really nice to eat with them for a change. I still eat very little – I’m not that hungry. Nonetheless, we have a lovely and fun conversation.
          Following dinner, we all head to the sundeck for drinks (I get to drink water – yoohoo!). Tomorrow is going to be another fun day as Kerry and I head for Abu Simbel.
          For photos from today, check this link out: http://www2.snapfish.com/shareereg/p=86971215478682391/l=402444543/g=50633650/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB/pns/share/p=86971215478682391/l=402444543/g=50633650/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB
Copyright © 2008 The Very Rev. Christopher D. Hofer

          It was a rough night sleep with my temperature going up and down. I’m tired, my body is worn out, but anyone who knows me will know how stubborn I am when I set my mind to something – I will NOT miss the sights for today.
          We are woken-up this morning at 8:00 a.m. for a 9:00 a.m. leaving. That extra bit of sleep, once I fell asleep, was wonderful. Yes, there is still the” back door trots” and I know what I have to do. After breakfast, I ask the front desk to arrange for me to see a doctor. He’ll be on the boat after our visit to the Edfu Temple. Cost ? $116 which will include medicines if needed. I’m a bit worried about seeing the doctor – will he understand that I’m allergic to sulfa? Will his English be good? Regardless, if I’m going to enjoy the rest of the trip – 13 more days – I’ll need to get well.
          We leave at 9:00 a.m. for our visit to Edfu. It’s again already hot – going to be 110 today. To get to the Temple there are two options. Our guide, Moataz, decides that we should take the horse and carriage option. The other option is by bus. One of the members of our 7 day group is not happy about this. She runs a horse rescue and care facility in Luxor. She says that the horses, especially in Edfu, are not well cared for. She is right – some of the horses are quite skinny and are obviously not taken care of the best.
          Kerry and I join Ian and Christine for the journey to Edfu Temple – it is about 15 minutes away by horse. Kerry and Christine sit under the covering, I’m right in front of them and Ian sits by the driver. He actually takes the reins a few times.
          Edfu is about ½ way between Luxor and Aswan. Although the water is further away now, it used to be on the water – especially during the flood season. According to legend, Edfu was where Horus, he’s that neat falcon (bird) god, fought a battle with his uncle, Seth.
          The Temple of Edfu, otherwise known as the Temple of Horus, is very much intact and is magnificent due to it being covered by sand and silt for nearly 2000. Construction began in 237 BC and was completed around the turn of that century. Construction then continued, like many temples, under a different leader – this time under Ptolemy XII.
          The temple is loaded with hieroglyphics, magnificent statues and imposing walls.�
           It was almost unbearably hot today, though. Thankfully, our guide, Moataz, does try to have us be in the shade us much as possible today. On the way out of the Temple, he has us all stop at a galabaya stand to purchase galabayas for tonight’s Galabaya party. There will be two on the trip. Galabayas are the traditional clothing of workers and Egyptians. A simple garment (dress), they come in many styles from the most simple to the complex. We get ours for 80 Egyptian Pounds - $15.
          Moataz tells me that we have to leave on one of the other buses as the doctor is waiting for me. I try to tell Christine and Ian. Moataz says we have to leave, “now.” I ask him to tell Christine and Ian – he says he will. (Interestingly, they never got word and were looking for us. We were able to laugh about it later but I really felt bad. Thankfully, it shows just how much they cared, though).
          We get back to the ship and, guess what, it is being repositioned. By the time we get on, the others from our group are getting back, too. Thus, we simply could have gone on the horse again.
          I meet the doctor who takes me to my room. After an examination (my blood pressure was quite good – I was pleased), he says, you have some intestinal bacteria. Take this one pill every 8 hours and this hour pill every 12 hours until gone. Don’t drink while taking them and enjoy Egypt. I asked what the pills were – he said, “they’ll make you better.” I find out that evening from Natalie, from Scotland – she’s a pharmacist, that I was given two antibiotics that work together. They were two very strong antibiotics. The reason you can’t drink, she says, is that they contain medicine that is given to those in hospitals suffering from detox (alcohol). If you’d drink, you’d vomit. She says not only can I not drink for the 3 ½ days on the pill, I can’t drink for 2 – 3 days afterwards. Thus, I won’t be able to have any alcohol until Monday next week at the earliest. I’m ok with it as I haven’t been having anything on the ship to begin with.
          Shower time (it is easier to shower after the morning tour) and I’m really not feeling well. Kerry gets the chef to make me a really good meal (boiled rice in broth, boiled chicken breast, some broth and crackers). It really is quite good and I’m able to eat a bit – I needed the protein). I then go to sleep and Kerry hits the pool. He took some great shots of the way including some temples that are simply along the banks of the Nile as we leave Edfu for Kom Ombo.�
          Moataz decides that we’ll leave for our visit to Kom Ombo Temple will be at 6:30 p.m. which will mean a bit of less crowds – there are over 40 Nile Cruise ships at Kom Ombo on our stop. It is still painfully hot, but we can literally walk to Kom Ombo Temple – a five minute walk. I’m actually starting to feel a bit better, although tired and weak.
          The Temple of Kom Ombo is quite unique. It was dedicated to two gods – on the left the god Haroeis (Horus the Elder) and on the right side, Sobek, the crocodile god. Construction, like Edfu, began in the 2^nd Century BC. The Roman emperor Augustus added pylons around 30 BC. There are many unique elements including a calendar, a Nile-o-meter (which measured the height of the Nile to determine taxes – even 2000 years ago there were taxes), some mummified crocodiles, and some great views. Everyone in our tour group is having difficulty hearing and following Moataz – we’re all tired, it is hot, and I think we simply want to see the sights.
          Kerry and Ian are impossible. They always are leaving the group to take photos. Christine and I wonder where they are – but figure they’ll find us.     �
          After dinner, we all head back to the boat to change for the Galabaya Party. Upon each entrance, the staff cheer and applaud. The food is Egyptian buffet – really the only Egyptian food on the cruise ship – it is mainly western. Food is good, I’m sure, although I hardly eat anything. After dinner there is a Galabaya party in the main lounge – we stick around for a bit but know we’ll go again later in the week. I’m tired and need to head to bed. Kerry goes to the sun deck for some relaxation before bed.
          I’m definitely nearly 1000% feeling better than I did in the morning. The sights today were magnificent. It was hot – but then again, it is always hot. Tomorrow we arrive in Aswan and get to see the High Dam, the unfinished obelisk, and the Temple of Philae.

Here’s a link for photos of Edfu, Kom Ombo and the Galabaya Party I: http://www2.snapfish.com/shareereg/p=43461215390466158/l=402290691/g=50633650/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB/pns/share/p=43461215390466158/l=402290691/g=50633650/otsc=SYE/otsi=SALB

Copyright © 2008 The Very Rev. Christopher D. Hofer
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